I decided to make the most of my day off in the Albanian town of Shkodër by exploring a nearby nature reserve on the Adriatic coast and, whilst I was at it, visiting the village of Velipojë, which is rapidly developing as a tourist destination.
*Nature Reserve*
The Buna–Velipojë Nature Reserve is one of the most striking and ecologically best-preserved treasures of north-western Albania. It covers an area of more than 23,000 hectares and brings together the fresh waters of the River Buna, which flows into the Adriatic Sea at this very spot and along which the border between Montenegro and Albania runs; the salt waters of the Adriatic Sea; the sand dunes; and the wetland ecosystems of the Vilun Lagoon.
The nature reserve is situated approximately 30 km south-west of the town of Shkodër. I managed to park in front of the Velipojë village police station and, having stocked up on drinking water, set off to explore the nature reserve.
For the first 2 kilometres, I walked through a beautiful mixed forest and it didn’t feel at all as though I was so close to the sea. At the end of this section, there is a tall birdwatching tower, which is well worth a look. It’s not even possible to climb to the top, as four wooden steps are missing from the upper section, creating a gap of over 2 metres and posing a significant risk of falling a depth of around 10 metres. It’s a real shame that this structure has been so neglected. After all, this area is home to hundreds of species of migratory birds, and it would certainly be a wonderful experience to be able to observe them undisturbed from here.
From the viewpoint, I walked another 2 km through the forest and suddenly found myself in an open space. Imagine a completely deserted, beautiful sandy beach several hundred metres wide with very fine sand. The first thing that catches your eye is the countless number of shells of various sizes and colors. In fact, I even collected a few kilos of them ☺.
If I’d turned right on the beach, I’d have reached the mouth of the River Buna after about 300 metres. However, I decided to turn left and try to walk as far as possible along the beach barefoot on my way back. And I didn’t regret it ☺.
Along the way, I was able to watch flocks of birds, enjoy the beautiful coves and lagoons, and marvel at how the wide beaches gave way to impassable stretches through the dense vegetation. In such cases, the only way to get through was by wading through water up to my knees. Not to mention that this area, covered in pine forests and dotted with wild sand dunes, creates a healing microclimate that is quite well known in the region.
After overcoming various obstacles, I managed to walk about 2 kilometres along the beach. Then I came across a forest path that led me all the way to the huge Velipoja Grand Europa Resort. And from there, it was just one kilometre back to my car. I even managed to find ‘my’ beach ☺. And by the car park, I found a lovely café where, whilst sipping a beer, I came up with my next plan ☺.
*Rrjolle Beach*
I got into the car and, 15 kilometres further east, got out in the village of Baks-Rrjoll. I parked right inside the grounds of the Ibiza Resort hotel complex, and I was enchanted by the beach at first sight.
After a hearty lunch at the hotel, I headed to the beach. It has to be said that this beach retains a peaceful atmosphere, with fine sand and clear sea. And on the day I was there – there were perhaps four people across a whole kilometre of beach!
I simply cannot resist describing the beach’s unique location. It is situated on a headland jutting out towards the west, forming a sort of peninsula. It is separated from Velipojë by a narrow channel that connects the Adriatic Sea with the two lakes, Liqeni i Valunit and Liqeni i Ernisit. It is the latter lake that also separates Rrjolle Beach from the mainland. Both lakes contain salt water; their depth reaches a maximum of 1 metre, and only in a few places does it reach 2–3 metres. A footbridge spans Liqeni i Ernisit, providing a shortcut from the mainland to the peninsula, of which Rrjolle Beach forms part. And the sunsets from there are magical…
To tell the truth, I didn’t really want to leave, but the next day more of Albania’s wonders were waiting for me, which I’ll be happy to share with you in future articles…
If you decide to follow in my footsteps and need advice on accommodation, food, hiking trails or other ways to spend your time around Shkodër and Velopojë, please don’t hesitate to contact me via email at ajka@uzisibalkaninak.com. You can also follow me on social media: the ‘Enjoy the Balkans Differently’ Facebook page or on Instagram.
P.S.: All the photos are mine and are protected by copyright… 🙂
