I’ve been to the Velika Paklenica Canyon many times, in different seasons, in different weather conditions and at different times of day, so today I’ll be sharing a wide variety of photos from my numerous trips to this unique Croatian national park.
Paklenica National Park forms part of the Velebit mountain range, specifically its southern side. The Velebit is, in fact, a vast karst region – at least on its coastal side. In summer, when the sun is beating down, it really is like a ‘sauna’ here ☺. There is also a shortage of water here; the springs are ‘stingy’ and dry up during the summer heatwaves. But there is one place where, even in summer, there is no shortage of water, shade and greenery. That place is the Velika Paklenica Canyon, part of one of Croatia’s eight national parks.
The main feature of this canyon is the Paklenica stream, which never runs dry in its upper reaches, even in the height of summer. It is (together with the Mala Paklenica stream) the only permanent watercourse on the sea-facing side of Velebit. It rises at an altitude of 1,250 metres below the Ivine Vodice area and, for the first 5 kilometres, flows through lush woodland, forming no waterfalls and descending only gradually. At the Paklenica Mountain Rescue Service hut, it joins the Brezimenjać stream and begins its magnificent journey towards the sea. The stream varies in pace – in some places it ‘slows to a crawl’, whilst in others its flow is very rapid. In some places, its canyon reaches a depth of up to 100 metres. This gives rise to magnificent waterfalls. At the foot of Anića Kuk hill, the river almost ‘falls asleep’ and then enters the deepest part of the canyon, where it overcomes the greatest drop and encounters the greatest obstacles. This results in wilder waterfalls. It then calms down again and flows into the sea on the plain. The Paklenica stream is only 14 km long, but on its journey it has managed to create some truly beautiful features.
*Right, let’s set off on our excursion ☺*
The quickest way to reach the entrance to the canyon is from the town of Starigrad. From the town centre, it is just 3.5 km (6 minutes) by car to the last car park before the pedestrian entrance to the canyon. On the way, you’ll pay the entrance fee to Paklenica National Park, drive a further 1.5 km, and then you can park in front of the ‘pedestrian zone’. Naturally, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the closer to the ‘pedestrian zone’ you’ll be able to park. And this also applies during the spring and autumn months.
The first section of the route is just half a kilometre long, with a very gentle incline. You will arrive at the ‘Paklenica Underground City’ (Podzemni grad Paklenica) complex. This section of the Velika Paklenica Gorge is called Klanci.
You can still use a ‘civilised’ toilet here, and there’s a small shop selling the sort of things you might need out in the ‘wild’ (from souvenirs to food, drinks and even raincoats).
There are also underground tunnels (bunkers) at this site. These were built by the Yugoslav Army between 1950 and 1953, when the crisis in relations between the Soviet Union and Yugoslavia reached its peak. The existence of the bunkers was kept secret until 1991. Following the end of the civil conflict in Croatia, the right to use the bunkers was granted to the ‘Paklenica National Park’ organisation. In 2000, work began on converting the bunkers into a visitor centre, which opened in August 2016. The project was not fully completed until July 2022.
Here you will also meet many climbers of all levels, from beginners to professionals. There are currently 590 climbing routes in Paklenica National Park. In the vicinity of the Podzemni grad Paklenica (Klanci) complex, there are mainly shorter sport climbing routes. These routes are easily accessible, which is why you’ll often come across young climbers here.
The most famous rock face for climbing in Paklenica is Anića kuk. It is an imposing rock face, 712 metres high, which has been attracting climbers from all over the world for over 70 years. You can climb it via the Duzin silaz via ferrata (I’m planning to explore it) or along the hiking trail. It’s really well worth it – the views from the top are magnificent.
The second section of the route runs past the turn-off for Veliki Ćuk and the via ferrata, or rather past the second crossing over the Paklenica stream. It is approximately 300 metres long, and this is where the ascent begins. Along the way, you can admire the crystal-clear water of the stream and various geomorphological features (cliffs, small caves).
You can also walk right down to the water’s edge, and I never miss a chance to wash my face in this ‘pristine’ water ☺.
And if you’re lucky, the permanent local residents – the so-called ‘divokoze’ (wild goats) – might even pose for you.
After another 300 metres, you’ll come to the turn-off for the hiking trail leading to the Anićin kuk rock.
From the turn-off, it’s just over a kilometre to the summit of Anićin kuk, but it’s a very steep climb and there’s no water along the way, so you need to be careful and carry a supply of water with you. From Anićinho kuku, you can return down the same path or continue along the red trail to the old settlement of Jurline, where you’ll see the so-called ‘Mirile’ (a place where, according to old superstitions, the soul parted from the body).
At the turn-off from the main route through the Velika Paklenica canyon towards Anićin kuk, there is also a small waterfall that you can ‘experience’ at close quarters.
We continue climbing for about another kilometre. The gradient gradually levels out, the stream slows down, and lush greenery surrounds us. On this stretch, you can refresh yourself with drinking water and top up your supplies.
You’ll come to a crossroads where you can choose between two options. If you turn left, you’ll reach the jewel of Velika Paklenica – the Manita Peć Cave. It’s about two kilometres from the turn-off to the cave, but even if you don’t make it inside (it’s open to the public, but only at certain times), the views are simply stunning. You can read more about the cave here. From the cave, you can return to the canyon or carry on to Zoljin and Vidakov kuk.
You’ll return to the canyon and continue along the main route. After 700 metres, you’ll reach Markov’s Mill (Markov mlin), which you can climb down to and explore from the inside. It is one of several mills that once operated along the Paklenica stream. As it is in ruins, please take care.
A very pleasant surprise awaits you over the next 1.5 km of walking. You’ll come across another small waterfall on the stream, which forms a beautifully coloured little lake. I couldn’t resist straying off the path to get a closer look (but don’t forget that there are quite a lot of snakes in this area, including venomous ones).
This section ends at the Forest Lodge (Lugarnica), where the hospitable warden will offer you refreshments in the form of drinks and a few dishes (soups, sausages). During one of my trips to the canyon, it rained quite heavily, so I was also grateful for the warm stove.
From Lugarnica, the path through the canyon begins to climb again; the canyon itself grows deeper and deeper, whilst the stream becomes a little narrower once more. After approximately 1.6 km, you will reach the Paklenica Mountain Rescue Service Hut, where you will find refreshments and drinking water. Overnight accommodation is also available here.
It’s entirely up to you whether you turn around here and head back, or carry on to one of the other two huts, which are a little higher up. One is called Ramičevi dvori and the other Ivančev dom. Both are about 350 metres from the mountain rescue hut. Both also offer delicious refreshments made from local produce, and there is the option of staying overnight.
I consider these two huts to mark the end of the Velika Paklenica Gorge; beyond them, the ascent to the main ridge of southern Velebit begins, with the option of climbing Velebit’s highest peak – Vaganski vrh.
And here are a few photos from the other end of the Velika Paklenica canyon ☺…
