This is one of my absolute favorite climbs, one I’m very proud of. It is the highest peak in the Durmitor mountain range and the third-highest peak in Montenegro – Bobotov Kuk. It stands at an impressive 2,523 metres. For a long time, it was considered the country’s highest peak, but it was recently discovered that on the border between Montenegro and Albania there are two peaks reaching heights of 2,534 metres and 2,528 metres respectively (Zla Kolata, Dobra Kolata), which are a few metres higher than Bobotov Kuk.
I’ve already written about the Durmitor mountain range, as well as my base in the town of Žabljak – the Casa di Pino hotel – in my previous article, “What was the climb up Mount Šljeme like in November?”. The only difference this time was that I didn’t have time to rest after the drive to Montenegro. I arrived in Žabljak at around 5.00 pm, said hello to the host and started getting ready for the following day. I’d set my alarm for 4.00 am, and I have to say that the last time I got up without coffee was after the birth of my youngest son – and that was 22 years ago. I’d prepared my thermos flask, but I’d forgotten to ‘top it up’ with coffee the night before 🙂
*The “Sedlo” Pass*
Several hiking trails in Durmitor start at the pass, which is aptly named “Sedlo” 🙂 and lies at an altitude of 1,907 metres. The narrow R-16 road leads here; it forms part of the so-called “Durmitor Ring”, is 80 km long and passes through the villages and towns of Durmitor such as Žabljak, Pišče, Trsa and Nedajno. It offers breathtaking views and can be travelled by car, motorbike or bicycle.
*From Sedlo to the Zeleni Vir Lake*
The route follows the red tourist trail. Having climbed the first 200 metres in altitude, I find myself right below the summit of one of Durmitor’s most photogenic peaks, Uvita Greda (2,199 metres), and I’m really enjoying the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
The route continues across the mountain plateaus through the Suvi Tavani Pass. As there were still snowfields in some places as late as June, I was unable to find the Lednički izvor spring, which was supposed to be about 50 metres from the main route.
To my right, I’m admiring the magnificent rocky peaks. You won’t believe what they’re called 🙂 . Zupci and Zupci 1. Apparently, it’s quite a popular name for hills around here 🙂 .
After a 3.5 km walk, I reach my first landmark – the Zeleni Vir mountain lake. I am enchanted by its incredible colour and the majesty of the rock formations surrounding it. And a trip to Montenegro wouldn’t be complete without four-legged companions, be they dogs or cats.
*To the Velika Previja mountain pass*
It’s only about 1 km to the Velika Previja pass (2,351 metres), but the climb is tough, as it involves a very steep section of scree. On the way, I pass Danilova ploča – a memorial plaque to the local mountain guide Danilo.
I reach the pass. I catch my breath after the steep climb and take in the breathtaking views. Several hiking trails intersect at the Velika Previja pass; from here, it’s possible to climb up to Lučin vrh (2,396 m). However, I’m not interested in that; I’m focusing solely on my destination – Bobotov kuk. Looking at this imposing rocky massif, I felt a sense of awe and knew that the most exposed section still lay ahead of me.
*The final stage of the ascent*
From the Velika Previja pass, I first traverse a snowfield with a gentle incline, and beyond it a steep ascent begins. The dogs, who accompany me all the way to the summit, give me courage and energy. During a short break, I admire the scenery of Lake Škrečko, holding my breath. The natural beauty is incredible…
The section secured by chains and a rope begins. To my surprise, the dogs continue with us even through the exposed sections. I was worried that one might fall, because in some parts they ‘froze’ and I had to wait for them to move on. As well as the dogs, you also need to watch out for descending hikers, as the route is two-way. After a bit of an adrenaline rush, I reach my destination and find myself standing on the summit of Bobotov Kuku.
After enjoying the views from the end point of today’s hike, I set off on the descent. On the way, tourists in jeans, with handbags slung over their shoulders and wearing walking shoes, pass me by. I have lots of questions running through my mind… And at the same time, I’m worried about them. Below the Velika Previja pass, I can hear and see a rescue helicopter flying above Bobotov Kuk. As I learnt upon arriving at the hotel, the helicopter had been called out because a tourist had fallen from Bobotov kuk. The mountains may be unpredictable, but I believe that with the right equipment and by not overestimating one’s abilities and capabilities, many such unpleasant incidents can be prevented.
The route was about 12 km long and I climbed 1,070 metres. I wouldn’t recommend this adventure to anyone who’s afraid of heights. Otherwise, it’s a very varied hike, which I could well see myself doing several times… But preferably with a morning cup of coffee 🙂 .
If you decide to follow in my footsteps and need advice on accommodation, food, hiking trails or other ways to spend your time in Durmitor or Žabljak, please don’t hesitate to contact me via email at ajka@uzisibalkaninak.com, my Facebook page ‘Enjoy the Balkans differently’ or Instagram.
P.S.: All photos are protected by copyright 🙂
