I’ll take you to Montenegro, specifically to the Durmitor mountain range. It is part of the Dinaric Alps, which stretch across northern Montenegro, where it borders Bosnia and Herzegovina. The highest peak in Durmitor is Bobotov Kuk, at 2,523 meters. Durmitor is one of five national parks in Montenegro.
This national park simply has everything a national park should have… High peaks, glacial lakes, deep canyons, and caves. There are plenty of hiking trails, ranging from easy to more challenging. I love coming back here, and I’ll be taking you there in my future posts.
*Planning*
Before this trip, I had already visited Durmitor in the winter (February), when I experienced meters of snow, but also in August… though without the meters of snow 🙂 I was very curious to see what it looked like there in the fall, so in November I made a spontaneous decision to travel to this tourist paradise and attempt some interesting hikes.
I hadn’t planned anything specific, since I know that the weather in the mountains—and this goes for Durmitor as well—has its own rules. From beautiful sunshine, through rain and fog, to snow-capped peaks. And that’s exactly why I had to pack for all kinds of weather… you could say for all seasons 🙂 🙂 .
*Accommodation*
When I’m in Durmitor, I stay in the town of Žabljak. It’s a small town with about 2,000 permanent residents. Thanks to its unique location at an altitude of 1,450 meters and its numerous lodging and dining options, it has become a major tourist hub, attracting many visitors from both home and abroad.
My oasis of peace is the Casa di Pino EcoLodge Hotel. The hotel features 8 guest rooms, ranging from double rooms to multi-bed suites, as well as a sauna, a massage room, and a cozy common area on the ground floor. The hotel owner has truly succeeded in creating a unique space with a family-friendly atmosphere. The perfectly prepared breakfasts made with local ingredients are worth mentioning. Delicious herbal teas made from herbs from the national park are a given, and excellent coffee is also available. The hotel is open year-round. If you want to see what one of the rooms looks like, click on the video below and check out my photos of the hotel as well.
*The Journey*
There are several ways to get to Žabljak. If you prefer to fly, you can purchase a ticket to Montenegro’s capital, Podgorica, from where the owner of Casa di Pino provides a car transfer to the hotel. The flight takes approximately 75 minutes, and the transfer takes about 2.5 hours (depending on weather conditions, 133 km).
Another option is to drive your own car. There are several routes to Žabljak; the shortest one (from central Slovakia) goes through Hungary and Serbia. The route follows the highway to the town of Čačak (about 140 km south of Belgrade). From there, the road becomes slower, with hairpin turns through the towns of Užice, Zlatibor, Nova Varoš, and Prijepolje, all the way to the Jabuka border crossing. From the border crossing, it’s only 73 kilometers to Žabljak. I recommend stopping in the town of Plevlja to see the Husein-paša Mosque and driving over the Tara River Canyon, which offers breathtaking scenery.
In November, I decided to travel to Žabljak via a longer but more comfortable route through Hungary and Croatia. I recommend this route only if you plan to stay overnight. The advantage is that the highway runs all the way to the Croatian town of Ploče, and the journey is also made faster by the bridge connecting the mainland to Pelješac, which was completed a few years ago. I spent the night in the village of Orašac (about 15 km north of Dubrovnik), where I liked it so much that I extended my stay by another night. It was warm and sunny, and if it hadn’t been for the strong wind causing big waves, I would have considered going for a swim.
From Orašac, I traveled via Dubrovnik and the Gornji Brgat border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina, arriving at the very pretty Bosnian town of Trebinje (approx. 45 km), where I treated myself to a cup of fantastic coffee. I then crossed the Klobuk border crossing and passed through the town of Nikšić (Montenegro), I arrived at my destination in the town of Žabljak (approx. 135 km).
*Planning Activities in Žabljak*
The key factor in planning activities in November was, of course, the weather. Even though I’ve done quite a bit of hiking, in situations like this I naturally prefer to consult with the locals, who know their mountains inside out and are familiar with their caprices in every season.
And one of the activities they recommended was a hike up Mount Šljeme. Šljeme is the third-highest peak in the Durmitor mountain range, standing at an impressive 2,445 meters.
I would like to point out that this is not a peak like any other. In reality, Šljeme is an approximately 2-kilometer-long rocky plateau with an average elevation exceeding 2,400 meters. There are several peaks on this plateau, the most famous of which are Istočni vrh (Eastern Peak) at 2,445 meters and Vrh Šljemena at 2,455 meters. My goal was Istočni vrh.
*An Ascent*
And the day of the climb finally arrived—a day I’d been really looking forward to. I’d chosen the day based on the weather, and I have to say the forecast was spot on. At seven in the morning, it was still freezing (especially in the shade of the peaks), but the sun was already making its presence felt with its warm rays.
The best place to start the ascent to Šljeme is the parking lot at the Savin Kuk ski resort, located near the summit of Vodena Glavica (1,533 m). It’s a 7.5 km drive from Žabljak… just a stone’s throw away 😉 . Towering directly above the ski resort is the mighty Savin Kuk (2,313 meters). It is Šljeme and Savin Kuk, located north of it, that form the eastern edge of central Durmitor above the so-called Lake Plateau.
Right at the start of the hike, something so wonderful happened that God sent me two guides for this trip. While I was still in the parking lot, two little puppy siblings ran up to me. They wanted to play and cuddle, and I just couldn’t resist. And I had no idea yet that they would accompany me all the way to the end of the hike.
Starting with a gentle climb and later a steeper ascent, I reached my first destination, Panali Peak (1,813 m). This peak stands out prominently in the Šljeme massif and serves as another starting point for continuing the ascent.
The little pups were so tired that they fell asleep, so I let them nap and continued on my way.
The trail winds its way up the steep slope past the Korita and Osojna Greda rock formations and the Šupljika Cave to the Šljeme mountain ridge. The views are breathtaking; there’s nothing but emptiness all around—just me, the local chamois (known locally as “divokoze”), and silence…
After crossing several ravines, I made it all the way to Istočni vrh. I didn’t stay there long, because the higher I climbed, the stronger the icy wind blew, so I took a few (about 100) photos… hahaha… And I decided to head back down.
I’m tired, but I get an incredible burst of energy when I see the dogs running toward me at the top. They’d been napping and tracked me down. It filled me with strength and joy, and as a reward, I gave them a treat.
I’m heading back along the same route, keeping an eye out for the wind, especially near the edge of the precipice. The dogs are faithfully following me, and I’m savoring the breathtaking views and their company.
My guides and I arrive at the parking lot of the Savin Kuk ski resort. There, I’m greeted by a huge Bernard, which startled me a little, so I jumped into the car with my backpack. After a moment, though, I plucked up the courage to try petting him. He was very friendly, used to people. The other dogs were barking at him, and it was clear they were a little afraid of him. It was hard for me to leave such good company, but my stomach was already churning. Luckily, I noticed in the car that the St. Bernard had left a sticky, 20-centimeter-long slobber mark on my pants as a souvenir. At least I had time to wipe it off before entering the restaurant.
The crowd behind me and the orchestra in my stomach quieting down in front of me 😉 . I chose the Or’O restaurant right in the center of Žabljak.
The hike to Šljeme isn’t one of the longest; the round trip from the parking lot is about 9 km and can be completed in 5 hours at a leisurely pace. However, if you’re having fun with the dogs and taking photos… it’ll take you longer. But I don’t mind, because the journey is the destination. The elevation gain is approximately 920 meters. It’s a hike that anyone who’s done some hiking can handle. No special gear is needed; in the winter months, crampons and an ice axe are sufficient. And of course, healthy legs, good lungs, and a cheerful attitude.
If you decide to follow in my footsteps and need advice on accommodations, food, hiking trails, or other ways to spend your time in Durmitor, feel free to contact me via email at ajka@uzisibalkaninak.com or through my Facebook page, “Enjoy the Balkans differently.”
P.S.: All photos are protected by copyright 🙂
