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*Pl\u00e1novanie*<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n Pred touto cestou som u\u017e Durmitor nav\u0161t\u00edvila aj po\u010das zimy (febru\u00e1r), ke\u010f som za\u017eila skuto\u010dne metre snehu, ale aj v auguste..to u\u017e bez metrov snehu \ud83d\ude42 . Bola som ve\u013emi zvedav\u00e1 ako to tam vyzer\u00e1 na jese\u0148 a preto v novembri padlo spont\u00e1nne rozhodnutie vycestova\u0165 do tohto turistick\u00e9ho raja a pok\u00fasi\u0165 sa o zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 v\u00fdstupy.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Ni\u010d konkr\u00e9tne som nepl\u00e1novala, ke\u010f\u017ee viem, \u017ee po\u010dasie v \u00a0hor\u00e1ch, a to plat\u00ed aj pre Durmitor, m\u00e1 svoje vlastn\u00e9 pravidl\u00e1. Od pekn\u00e9ho slne\u010dn\u00e9ho, cez da\u017ede a hmlu a\u017e po zasne\u017een\u00e9 vrcholce \u0161t\u00edtov. A pr\u00e1ve preto som sa musela nabali\u0165 do viacer\u00fdch druhov po\u010dasia ..d\u00e1 sa poveda\u0165 \u017ee do viacer\u00fdch ro\u010dn\u00fdch obdob\u00ed \ud83d\ude42 \ud83d\ude42 .<\/p>\n <\/p>\n *Ubytovanie*<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n Ke\u010f som v Durmitore, ubytujem sa v meste\u010dku \u017dabljak. Ide o mal\u00e9 meste\u010dko, ktor\u00e9 ma cca. 2 000 st\u00e1lych obyvate\u013eov. V\u010faka svojej jedine\u010dnej polohe vo v\u00fd\u0161ke 1 450 m, po\u010detn\u00fdm ubytovac\u00edm a stravovac\u00edm zariadeniam sa stalo v\u00fdznamn\u00fdm turistick\u00fdm centrom, ktor\u00e9 hojne nav\u0161tevuje dom\u00e1ca a zahrani\u010dn\u00e1 klientela.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Mojou o\u00e1zou pokoja je hotel Casa di Pino EcoLodge Hotel<\/u><\/a>. Hotel zah\u0155\u0148a 8 ubytovac\u00edch jednotiek, od 2 miestnych izieb a\u017e po viacmiestne suity, saunu a mas\u00e9rsku miestnos\u0165 a \u00fatuln\u00fd spolo\u010densk\u00fd priestor na pr\u00edzem\u00ed. Majite\u013eovi hotela sa skuto\u010dne podarilo vytvori\u0165 unik\u00e1tny priestor, d\u00fdchaj\u00faci rodinnou atmosf\u00e9rou. Za zmienku stoja dokonale pripravovan\u00e9 ra\u0148ajky z dom\u00e1cich surov\u00edn. Samozrejmos\u0165ou s\u00fa lahodn\u00e9 bylinkov\u00e9 \u010daje z byliniek \u00a0z n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku a nech\u00fdba vynikaj\u00faca k\u00e1va.Hotel funguje po\u010das cel\u00e9ho roka. Ak chce\u0161 vidie\u0165 ako vyzer\u00e1 jedna z izieb klikni na video ni\u017e\u0161ie a pozri si \u00a0aj moje fotky hotela.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n *Cesta*<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n Existuje viacej sp\u00f4sobov, ako sa dosta\u0165 do \u017dabljaku. Ak chce \u00eds\u0165 niekto letecky, tak je mo\u017en\u00e9 k\u00fapi\u0165 si letenku do hlavn\u00e9ho mesta \u010ciernej Hory – Podgorice, odkia\u013e majite\u013e hotela Casa di Pino zabezpe\u010duje transfer automobilom do hotela. Let trv\u00e1 cca. 75 min\u00fat, a transfer cca. 2,5 hodiny (v z\u00e1vislosti od po\u010dasia, 133 km).<\/p>\n \u010eal\u0161\u00ed sp\u00f4sob dopravy je vlastn\u00fdm autom. Do \u017dabljaku sa d\u00e1 cestova\u0165 viacer\u00fdmi trasami, najkrat\u0161ou (zo stredn\u00e9ho Slovenska) je trasa cez Ma\u010farsko a Srbsko. Trasa vedie po dia\u013enici a\u017e po obec \u010ca\u010dak (asi 140 km ju\u017ene od Belehradu). Odtia\u013e je u\u017e cesta pomal\u0161ia aj s krkolomn\u00fdmi z\u00e1krutami cez meste\u010dk\u00e1 U\u017eice, Zlatibor, Nova Varo\u0161 a Prijepolje a\u017e po hrani\u010dn\u00fd priechod Jabuka. Z hrani\u010dn\u00e9ho prechodu je to do \u017dabljaku u\u017e len 73 kilometrov. Odpor\u00fa\u010dam sa zastavi\u0165 v meste\u010dku Plevlja pozrie\u0165 si me\u0161itu Husein-pa\u0161u a pri prejazde ponad ka\u0148on rieky Tara, ktor\u00fd pon\u00faka \u00fachvatn\u00e9 scen\u00e9rie.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Ja som sa rozhodla v novembri cestova\u0165 do \u017dabljaku dlh\u0161ou, ale pohodlnej\u0161ou trasou cez Ma\u010farsko a Chorv\u00e1tsko. T\u00fato trasu odpor\u00fa\u010dam len s noc\u013eahom. V\u00fdhodou je, \u017ee a\u017e \u00a0po chorv\u00e1tske mesto Plo\u010de vedie dia\u013enica a cestu ur\u00fdchlil aj pred p\u00e1r rokmi dokon\u010den\u00fd most z pevniny na Pelje\u0161ac. Ja som prespala v obci Ora\u0161ac (asi 15 km severne od Dubrovn\u00edka), kde sa mi zap\u00e1\u010dilo nato\u013eko, \u017ee som si pobyt pred\u013a\u017eila o \u010fal\u0161iu noc. Bolo teplo a slne\u010dno a keby nef\u00fakal siln\u00fd vietor, ktor\u00fd mal na svedom\u00ed ve\u013ek\u00e9 vlny, \u00a0zva\u017eovala by som \u00a0aj k\u00fapanie.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Z Ora\u0161acu som ponad Dubrovn\u00edk a hrani\u010dn\u00fd prechod Gornji Brgat do Bosny a Hercegoviny docestovala do ve\u013emi pekn\u00e9ho bosnianskeho meste\u010dka Trebinje (cca. 45 km), kde som si dopriala \u0161\u00e1lku fantastickej k\u00e1vy a cez pohrani\u010dn\u00fd prejazd Klobuk a mesto Nik\u0161i\u010d (\u010cierna Hora) som dorazila do m\u00f4jho cie\u013ea v meste\u010dku \u017dabljak (cca. 135 km).<\/p>\n *Pl\u00e1novanie aktiv\u00edt v \u017dabljaku*<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fdm krit\u00e9riom pri pl\u00e1novan\u00ed aktiv\u00edt bolo v novembri samozrejme po\u010dasie. Napriek tomu, \u017ee m\u00e1m nie\u010do schoden\u00e9, v tak\u00fdchto pr\u00edpadoch sa samozrejme rad\u0161ej porad\u00edm s miestnymi, ktor\u00ed dokonale poznaj\u00fa svoje hory a ich vrtochy v ka\u017edom ro\u010dnom obdob\u00ed.<\/p>\n A jednou z aktiv\u00edt, ktor\u00fa n\u00e1m poradili, bol pr\u00e1ve v\u00fdstup na vrch \u0160ljeme. \u0160ljeme je tret\u00edm najvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholcom v pohor\u00ed Durmitor s v\u00fd\u0161kou \u00factihodn\u00fdch 2 445 m.<\/p>\n Rada by som podotkla, \u017ee nejde o vrchol podobn\u00fd in\u00fdm. V realite \u0160ljeme predstavuje cca. 2 km dlh\u00fa skaln\u00fa plo\u0161inu, ktorej priemern\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka presahuje 2 400 metrov. Na tejto plo\u0161ine sa nach\u00e1dza nieko\u013eko \u0161t\u00edtov, z ktor\u00fdch s\u00fa najzn\u00e1mej\u0161ie Isto\u010dni vrh (V\u00fdchodn\u00fd) s v\u00fd\u0161kou 2 445 metrov a Vrh \u0160ljemena s v\u00fd\u0161kou 2 455 metrov. M\u00f4j cie\u013e bol Isto\u010dni vrh.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n *V\u00fdstup*<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n A pri\u0161iel de\u0148 v\u00fdstupu, na ktor\u00fd som sa ve\u013emi te\u0161ila. De\u0148 som volila pod\u013ea po\u010dasia, a mus\u00edm poveda\u0165, \u017ee predpove\u010f sa nem\u00fdlila. O siedmej r\u00e1no bolo s\u00edce e\u0161te mrazivo (obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 v tieni \u0161t\u00edtov), ale slnie\u010dko u\u017e d\u00e1valo o sebe vedie\u0165 svojimi hrejiv\u00fdmi l\u00fa\u010dmi.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n V\u00fdstup na \u0160ljeme je najlep\u0161ie za\u010da\u0165 na parkovisku ly\u017eiarskeho strediska Savin Kuk, ktor\u00e9 sa nach\u00e1dza pri vrchole Vodenej glavice (1 533 m). Autom je to sem zo \u017dabljaku 7,5 km… \u010do by kame\u0148om dohodil \ud83d\ude09 . Priamo nad ly\u017eiarskym strediskom dr\u017e\u00ed str\u00e1\u017e mohutn\u00fd Savin Kuk (2 313 metrov). Pr\u00e1ve \u0160ljeme a Savin Kuk, ktor\u00fd sa nach\u00e1dza severne od neho, tvoria v\u00fdchodn\u00fd okraj centr\u00e1lneho Durmitoru nad tzv. Plo\u0161inou jazier.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Hne\u010f na za\u010diatku v\u00fdstupu sa mi prihodila tak\u00e1 n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 vec, \u017ee P\u00e1nbo\u017eko mi na tento v\u00fdstup poslal 2 sprievodcov. E\u0161te na parkovisku ku mne pribehli dve mal\u00e9 s\u00farodeneck\u00e9 \u0161teniatka. Chceli sa hra\u0165 a mazna\u0165 no a tomu ja odola\u0165 neviem. \u00a0A to som e\u0161te \u00a0netu\u0161ila, \u017ee ma bud\u00fa sprev\u00e1dza\u0165 a\u017e do konca t\u00fary.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Na za\u010diatku pozvo\u013en\u00fdm st\u00fapan\u00edm, nesk\u00f4r aj strminou som sa dostala na svoju prv\u00fa m\u00e9tu vrch Panali (1 813 m). Tento vrch vystupuje do popredia mas\u00edvu \u0160ljeme a je \u010fal\u0161\u00edm v\u00fdchodiskom pre pokra\u010dovanie vo v\u00fdstupe.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Tu mal\u00ed hafani boli tak\u00ed unaven\u00ed, \u017ee pospali, tak som ich nechala driema\u0165 a pokra\u010dovala som v ceste.<\/p>\n Cesta sa \u010falej vinie strminou popri skaln\u00fdch mas\u00edvoch Korita a Osojne grede, jaskyni \u0160upljika na horsk\u00fd hrebe\u0148 \u0160ljeme. V\u00fdh\u013eady vyr\u00e1\u017eaj\u00fa dych, v\u0161ade pr\u00e1zdno, len ja, miestni kamz\u00edci (po dom\u00e1cky \u201cdivokoze\u201d) a ticho…<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Popri viacer\u00fdch priepastiach sa dost\u00e1vam a\u017e na Isto\u010dni vrh. Nezdr\u017e\u00edm sa tu dlho,lebo \u010d\u00edm som bola vy\u0161\u0161ie, t\u00fdm viac silnel \u013eadov\u00fd vietor a tak som urobila zop\u00e1r (cca 100) fotiek.. hahaha.. A rozhodla som sa pre zostup.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Som unaven\u00e1, av\u0161ak dostanem neskuto\u010dn\u00fd n\u00e1boj energie, ke\u010f na vrchole zbad\u00e1m ps\u00edkov ako be\u017eia ku mne. Pospali si a vystopovali ma. Vlialo mi to silu a rados\u0165 do \u017e\u00edl a za odmenu dostali odo m\u0148a mlsku.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Vraciam sa tou istou trasou, d\u00e1vam si pozor na vietor, obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 na krajoch priepasti. Ps\u00edky ma verne nasleduj\u00fa a ja si vychutn\u00e1vam neopakovate\u013en\u00e9 v\u00fdh\u013eady a ich spolo\u010dnos\u0165.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Prich\u00e1dzam aj so svojimi sprievodcami a\u017e na parkovisko do ly\u017eiarskeho strediska Savin Kuk. A tu ma v\u00edta velik\u00e1nsky bernard\u00edn, ktor\u00e9ho som sa tro\u0161ku z\u013eakla a sko\u010dila aj s ruksakom do auta. Po chv\u00ed\u013eke som sa ale osmelila a sk\u00fasila ho pohladka\u0165. Bol ve\u013emi priate\u013esky, navyknut\u00fd na \u013eud\u00ed. Mali hafani na\u0148ho \u0161tekali a bolo vidno \u017ee sa ho tro\u0161ku boja. \u0164a\u017eko sa mi odch\u00e1dzalo z takej dobrej spolo\u010dnosti,ale v \u017eal\u00fadku mi u\u017e vyhr\u00e1val orchester. E\u0161te\u017ee som si v aute \u00a0vsimla, \u017ee mi bernard\u00edn na pamiatku nechal na nohavici asi 20cm lepkav\u00fa slinu. Mala som aspo\u0148 \u010das ju odstr\u00e1ni\u0165 e\u0161te pred vstupom do re\u0161taur\u00e1cie.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n V\u00fdstup za mnou a ut\u00ed\u0161enie orchestra v \u017eal\u00fadku predo mnou \ud83d\ude09 . Zvolila som re\u0161taur\u00e1ciu Or<\/u>\u2019<\/u>O priamo v centre \u017dabljaku<\/u><\/a>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n T\u00fara na \u0160ljeme nepatr\u00ed k najdlh\u0161\u00edm, cesta z parkoviska a nasp\u00e4\u0165 meria cca. 9 km, d\u00e1 sa zvl\u00e1dnu\u0165 do 5 hod\u00edn pokojn\u00fdm tempom.Ak sa v\u0161ak zab\u00e1vate s hafanmi a foten\u00edm..bude v\u00e1m to trva\u0165 dlh\u0161ie. Ale mne to nevad\u00ed,preto\u017ee cesta je ciel. Prev\u00fd\u0161enie predstavuje pribli\u017ene 920 metrov. Ide o v\u00fdstup, ktor\u00fd zvl\u00e1dne ka\u017ed\u00fd, kto u\u017e m\u00e1 nie\u010do nachoden\u00e9. Nie je potrebn\u00e1 \u017eiadna zvl\u00e1\u0161tna v\u00fdbava, v zimn\u00fdch mesiacoch sta\u010dia ma\u010dky a cep\u00edn. A samozrejme zdrav\u00e9 nohy, dobr\u00e9 p\u013e\u00faca a vesel\u00e1 n\u00e1lada.<\/p>\n Ak by ste sa rozhodli \u00eds\u0165 po mojich stop\u00e1ch a potrebovali by ste \u00a0radu oh\u013eadom ubytovania, jedla, turistick\u00fdch v\u00fdstupov, \u010di in\u00e9ho sp\u00f4sobu tr\u00e1venia \u010dasu v Durmitore, nev\u00e1hajte ma kontaktova\u0165 prostredn\u00edctvom emailovej adresy ajka@uzisibalkaninak.com<\/u><\/a>\u00a0alebo mojej FB str\u00e1nky U\u017ei si Balk\u00e1n inak<\/u><\/a>\u00a0.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/uzisibalkaninak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/3.jpg\")
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